Re: 3D Calibration info from Mike Wood (Samsung)
Below is some new information from Mike Wood.
· The meter does need to measure the TV through the glasses (only for 3D). Contact meters (aka “hockey puck”, or tri-stimulus meters) will not work. Then again, they’re not that accurate anyway (hate me for being the messenger if you want, but you should really hate the company that sold you on it). You need a spot meter. The OTC100 might be fine. PR650s or higher, and KM CS-200/2000s are good. Otherwise, just accept the factory-calibration for 3D as “close enough”.
· Cloth gaffing tape seems to hold my glasses on to my PR-650 just fine. How they are held to the meter doesn’t really matter, other than how it might leave a mark on the meter. The glasses should be horizontal and parallel to the screen.
· The meter should be far enough back that the meter can take a large-enough sample of the screen, and far enough back that the glasses are activated by the emitter in the TV. The PR-650 has a dark spot in the viewfinder. The meter only measures the area behind the dark spot, not the entire field of view of the viewfinder.
· One could measure the delta of the measurement through the glasses versus the measurement from the TV directly, and calibrate the TV directly, but it would be a good idea to double check the results when you’re done. In other words, if the TV measures 5500K without glasses (in 3D mode), and 6000K with glasses (in 3D mode), then you could calibrate the TV to 6000K, and be reasonably certain that the result will be close to 6500K when seen through the glasses. The delta may NOT be 500K; I pulled that number out of thin air for demonstration purposes, and it may vary from set to set, so check it, and go from there. Confirm that both the high and low levels have the same offset, as well.