3D Calibration info from Mike Wood (Samsung)
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Calibrating Samsung 3D TVs
At least for Samsung 3D TVs, calibration is somewhat easy to accomplish in the 3D mode.
We have a 2D to 3D upconversion mode that will activate the 3D setting (which in turn will activate the glasses) and will upconvert your regular 2D test patterns to 3D. No, the test patterns will not have much depth effect, but they will go through the 3D processing channel so that you can calibrate the full signal path, and it will put the TVs picture settings into the 3D setting memory. For what it’s worth, the 2D to 3D function works surprisingly well with high-res, high-contrast content. You might want to be sure you have a copy of the movie “Baraka” on hand to demo for your customers when you’re done.
As set from the factory, the TV compensates for the tint of the glasses. Any further calibration should be done with a meter pointed through one lens of the glasses. Most meters will compensate for the refresh rate. I don’t recommend using contact (tristimulus) meters. If you have no choice, you might be better off using a visual gray reference for 3D mode. Calibrate for 2D, then activate 3D, wear the glasses and compare the reference to the on-screen image.
General calibration tips:
While it’s not readily evident (the user menu looks the same) the TV does have a separate memory for many of the major 3D functions, like black and white levels and white balance, so you can calibrate for those separately. I don’t know if there’s a separate CMS for 3D. I’m working on updated calibration notes and hope to have them posted for you soon. For now, see my 2009 notes, as 95% of the functions are the same.
I’m told that all the TVs should have the Cal-Day and Cal-Night functions. You would activate them (with the TV in Standby) by pressing Mute-182-Power to turn on the TV in the service mode. Then go to Expert and turn N/D ADJ to “On”. Cycle the TV power to get back to the user mode and Cal-Day and Cal-Night will appear under Picture Modes. When you’re done calibrating the Day/Night modes, you can go back to the service menu and can “fix” or lock those settings so that the user can’t adjust them.
Always calibrate HDMI signals first.
In some cases, the Mute-182-Power command won’t bring up the Expert menu. If there’s no firmware update for that TV that makes the Expert setting available, then you might have to calibrate the TV using the user-menu’s Movie mode.
As I’ve said before, when calibrating the white balance, start with Gain first, then use Offset. The Warm 2 Color Tone should be closest to D65, so use that as a starting point as well. If your meter tells you that Warm 2 is more than a few hundred Kelvin from 6500, and if there isn’t enough range in the TV controls to make it correct, then your meter is likely incorrect. In these sets, use Offset sparingly, as only mild increases in red, for example, can make deep black turn reddish.
We now also have 10-point White Balance, if you really want to spend all day tweaking a TV. I recommend using the 2-pt WB first, to get the image close to D65, then use the 10-pt WB to dial it in. Unlike with the 2-pt WB, I recommend starting the 10-pt adjustment from the bottom (Interval 1 or 2) and work your way up. Each Interval seems to correspond with a 10x IRE setting, so Interval 2=20 IRE, 3=30 IRE, and so forth…
You can adjust the 3D mode next. It’s tough to make the gray scale super flat in 3D mode. Again, adjust the gain first, possibly with a 70 IRE signal, and look at where the low end goes on a full ramp (or something with good shadow detail). Use the Offset sparingly, if at all. You might have to adjust the top end a bit to get a better compromise with the low end.
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