Samsung LCD/LED 3D UNxxC8000

Samsung LCD/LED 3D UNxxC8000

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  • This topic has 4 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by Anonymous.
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  • #444
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I calibrated a UN55C8000 LED 3D TV on Monday with less than satisfactory results on the grayscale (but the color gamut was able to be calibrated very well). I was wondering if anyone had any input. (This is posted on the ISF calibrator’s forum as well in case you see it there. Can we say ‘ISF’ here? 🙂 )

    I started by activating the Cal Day/Night modes and began calibrating the Cal Night mode. Even though the CS200 (and my check with an i1 Pro) were telling me that the grayscale was pretty much right on, when I checked an 11 or 21 bar Stair pattern, the grayscale was visibly tinted (pink in middle, greenish at bottom). The tinting, however, was not uniform and it seemed ‘spotty’, e.g., tinting occurring at one level, going away at the next level, and then coming back again at a higher level! The only way to get rid of the pinking, it seemed, was to lower the contrast down below 80, but this didn’t completely eliminate it (without lowering contrast to below 70 or so!).

    I was told that lowering the max contrast in the Service Menu would take care of the pinking issue. However, I couldn’t find an Advanced menu with the usual 0000 code. (Firmware was updated to the newest available – 1022.1) Never did find out how to lower the max contrast in the SM since I couldn’t find it.

    I observed something else which was a bit strange: on the Stair pattern above 235 there were TWO bars clearly visible, and no matter what I tried with contrast, I couldn’t merge them.

    It also seemed that in order to get a reasonable grayscale, the Smart LED function had to be off completely (setting it to Low didn’t work). Turning the Smart LED function on when watching program material then caused havoc with the picture.

    I tried calibrating Movie mode and had much better success (eventually), although there was still a hint of tinting and non-uniformity when I put up the Stair pattern. I couldn’t get rid of it. The Movie mode also had to be calibrated with the Smart LED function set to Off.

    I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or similar experiences. Thanks!

    Best,
    Greg

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  • #1902
    Anonymous
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    I have an email or two into Mike Wood and Sam Ahn at Samsung about the Advanced SM code to see what happens.

    Did you do the 2 point grayscale or the multipoint grayscale?

    Good that the FW was up to date so we can rule that out …

    Interesting to hear that the day and night modes were different enough from the movie mode … you’d think they were just place holders … but apparently not.

    As for the ISF thing … we are all friends here and Doug Weil (owner of the 313 site) is a Lion AV member and THX calibrator too. Info flows from there over to here fine. It just doesn’t go the other way. 🙂

    I wouldn’t worry too much about the physical position of the contrast. If you need to go under 70 .. so be it. It is not your fault … rather the TV’s. You have to make due with what you get. Give them a reference mode and then give them the day mode with some compromises like higher contrast or back light … (preferably backlight)

    Regards

    #1903
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Just got word from Mike Wood about the 0000 advance mode.

    He says “regrettably, this function is not present this year.” (Removed as a direct response to customer abuse of this option)

    So that’s it for now … do the best we can in the user menu.

    regards

    #1904
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    @Michael TLV 2248 wrote:

    Just got word from Mike Wood about the 0000 advance mode.

    He says “regrettably, this function is not present this year.”

    So that’s it for now … do the best we can in the user menu.

    regards

    Thanks so much for checking, Michael. I guess that’s why I couldn’t find it!

    I did a 2-pt grayscale first and got it roughly adjusted using only gains (I had heard that the offsets fouled up the works and were more trouble than they were worth), and then went on to the 10-pt adjustments – which seemed a little weird at the upper levels, e.g., the adjustment interval didn’t seem to match the luminance level.

    Thanks for the advice re: contrast and the help in general!

    Best,
    Greg

    #1113
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Hey all,

    I calibrated a 2010 55″ 6500 this past week and here is what I found:

    I would look at the “Shadow Detail” slider first after you run your first set of readings on the grey scale. This created lots of pain, and unfortunately, there was not enough range in the slider to get the 60-0 IRE Gamma to go lower than 2.3/2.4 (there was an annoying hump at about 30 IRE). Increase the slider to decrease the 0-60 IRE Gamma. Then, take a look at the Gamma slider and deal with that if you can as well. Ideally, it would be great if the 10 pt grey scale adjustments worked as they should to adjust for gamma. They did not. 70-100 worked as it should to decrease or increase gamma, but 0-50/60 hardly moved, and there was not enough range in the 10 pt system to increase the Gamma (client was in a bright room so I was adjusting for 2.2). Also, most of the seperate IRE adjustments worked pretty good with the exception of 60 and 30 IRE…one click of blue and BOOM, blue would shoot up…decrease and it would fall to say 97% with 101% on red. Try to adjust the red and it would do the same thing. Bottom line, these two adjustments were difficult to get squared away.

    CMS worked as always with the exception of red, which could not be shifted along the x axis very well.

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